All My Life: Discovering the Simple Surf Life FN2404

Punta Morena, a sleepy surf secret on Cozumel's windward coast, is where the Caribbean's raw energy transforms into perfect, rideable waves. A sleepy surf destination, with a small surf shack, shop, and restaurant. Everything is on the beach protected by a small reef outcropping. This small unassuming point is on the eastern coast 25 mins from the west coast by jeep. It is fortunate to be first to feel the embrace of the Caribbean swell.

Due to its position in the Gulf of Mexico/America, it is one of the few locations where the commotion out at sea is often enabled and transformed into lines of energy breaking all along the windward side of the island.
Punta Morena is a point break where the reef creates several perfect rights and lefts. The inner bank is a protected pool where the reef rises from the ocean and then drops before the sand begins. A handful of families congregate, establishing a safe lagoon for kids and parents, while the brave hit the surf and the spectators bathe and relax.

Nearing the elevated rock point you will often see a bronzed native to these shores with flowing dark hair shooting surfers with his telephoto lens. I, too, saw him there capturing the raw beauty of those crashing waves as locals attempted to ride the perfect forming swell.
He is a passionate man, living a simple life, one that most, if honest in their hearts, do also envy at least a small amount. He surfs, he freedives, he fishes for his food, he lives his passion, and shares it with anyone that calls out his name, like I did that January morning not knowing who he really was…” Nacho, we need to surf!”
He looked at me with a funny face, questioning our relation, and then beckoned me to his natural office with a wave and a friendly nod. He shot a couple more shots and then turned to me and said. Let’s surf! I looked at the surf and said this might be too big for my boys, and he said, “I know a spot come with me!” A man of few words, but a man of action.

We went straight way to the board shop then to the board storage, and then in 10 mins we had boards on his green surf mobile and we were off. We trailed behind Nacho's vintage jeep, a Flintstones-esque contraption that seemed to run as much on sheer will and foot power, as gasoline, and 5 mins south we came to a reverse point producing clean left breaks half the size of Punta Morena and he said, "Your sons will really enjoy this place… it will be Fantastic!" I didn’t know this Nacho Man, but his confidence gave me confidence and he gave us some soul boards, some instruction of where to go, what to do and not to do, and we paddled out.

Before I continue. Our trip was a month-long adventure, mostly windy with rough seas from Tulum to Cancun, out to the Isla Mujeres and back down to Playa del Carmen. We woke up that day, it was my birthday, it was a quick ride to the beach, where there was a surprising calm breeze and a glassy sea. We ferried from Playa del Carmen to Cozumel and took a jeep from Cozumel city to Punta Morena. (Punta, meaning tip or point, and Morena meaning dark or dark-skinned.)

Fitting that a dark-skinned man stood at that point as we pulled up, as if he knew his post, it was meant to be, and he stood proud as the steward of that tropical oasis.
I also must note that renting a rickety vintage jeep is a prerequisite for the island experience and helps set the mood and will bring you closer to an authentic island life experience. But pick the better of the jeeps you see, we saw several struggling to stay alive or abandoned roadside.

Back to the paddle out: It was as if the creator was painting with pure energy that day. The combination of opposites from the raging storms two weeks previous collected and recalibrated with a touch of gentle offshore winds and calm waters set up a scene as lovely as the North Shore of Oahu. Endless lines of perfection. A birthday gift never to be forgotten. A dream to paddle out with all my boys in such special conditions was a true treasure. With the lack of time in the water over the most recent years, I was thrilled that they remained confident in their skills and caught many waves in the uncrowded surf.
There was Nacho, a few friends, his dog, which usually resides on his board, and us. Four newcomers welcomed like kindred spirits.

With each wave, we hooted and hollered, completely caught up in the moment, we couldn’t get enough!
As the hours passed, the energy waned in us, and Mother Nature's engine began to slow, the tides changed, and the winds picked up, so too we were spent.Time worthy of repeating, time worthy of remembering. We loaded up the boards and Nacho turned to me and said, “ Amigo, how long are you here for”, I said, “Unfortunately, we leave tonight,” then proceed to tell him how long we had been in Mexico. He replied more animated then ever, “You could have been here the whole time, surfing and spearfishing with me." His words resonated deeply, not with regret, but with a profound sense of reflection on my priorities.

Nacho didn't need a business card; his spirit is etched into the very soul of Punta Morena. These are the moments that transcend transactions, becoming treasured narratives within us for a lifetime.

So, on your next journey south, venture beyond the curated resorts and bustling beaches. Seek instead the whispers of the windward coast, the untamed beauty where the Caribbean's heart beats strong. Find there Nacho, the guardian of Punta Morena, a man whose life is a testament to the magic of living in harmony with the ocean's rhythm.

​Whether he's guiding you onto your first wave or sharing a knowing smile across the lineup, he embodies the soul of authentic experience. Talk less, surf more, and discover a life lived in vibrant simplicity.
And if you ask him how long he's been living this way, he'll simply reply...

"All my life." - Nacho